1983 Ford F150 Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram

I have a 95 F150 4x4,five.8l,E40D,dual fuel tanks its an Xl model.
I have been having problems with starting it sometimes it volition well-nigh of the time it'll just turn over. going down the road @ 70mph information technology will lose all pulling power,dropping the speed to well-nigh 40mph then it would begin pulling again but, information technology wasn't killing the engine till a few days agone... now its difficult to become started and will loose power then die.i've looked at several possibilities merely when i call back its one thing some other problem will nowadays... I originally thought fuel;inverse filter,then I thought fuel pumps or tank switch all is proficient at that place as far as I can tell... Ive been reading alot of the posts on here especially most the electrical problems. I have just about every tool and knoledge that a human being would want simply, this has me and some of my friends stumped to hell. any help would be greatly appreciated!

Postal service by **Steve83** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 9:30 pm

What'southward the fuel force per unit area? Read these captions:

You don't have to outset a unlike thread for each question. It'south better to have them together.

Freebirds4x4 wrote:I accept no power in the eec code connexion plug. i have a new equus lawmaking reader.

Return the lawmaking reader for a refund and use a paperclip. In that location isn't supposed to be power in an EEC-IV DLC. Read this caption:

Fri Oct 15, 2010 11:24 am

Steve83 Thank Y'all for your help. I pulled the ignition switch out and its bad. I can hither something rattling inside. its a $20.00 gear up. I will change it out and then test the fuel pressure and get dorsum with you lot.

Post by **Steve83** » Fri Oct 15, 2010 11:32 am

It's extremely rare for a '92-up ignition switch to go bad.

Ford wrote:Ignition Switch Removal
1. Disconnect battery basis cable (14301). Remove the upper steering cavalcade shroud (3530) by removing the cocky-tapping screws.
ii. Remove four bolts retaining lower steering column shroud and remove lower steering column shroud.
3. Remove lock spiral and disconnect the ignition switch electrical connector.
4. Rotate the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) to the RUN position.
5. Remove the two screws retaining ignition switch (11572).
6. Disengage the ignition switch from the actuator.

Installation
NOTE: A new replacement ignition switch assembly will exist set in the RUN position as received.
ane. Adjust the ignition switch by sliding the carrier to the RUN position.
2. Make sure the ignition switch lock cylinder is in the RUN position. The RUN position is achieved by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder approximately 90 degrees from the LOCK position.
3. Install the ignition switch into the column actuator hole. It may be necessary to move the ignition switch dorsum and forth slightly to align the ignition switch mounting holes with the lock cylinder housing threaded holes.
4. Install retaining screws. Tighten to vi-8 Nm (53-71 lb-in).
5. Connect the electrical connector to the ignition switch. Tighten lock screw to 0.eight-i.3 Nm (7-eleven.v lb-in).
half dozen. Connect battery ground cablevision. Check ignition switch for proper function, including START and ACC positions. As well, make certain that the column is in the LOCK position.
7. Install the upper steering cavalcade shroud and lower steering column shroud.

Post by **Freebirds4x4** » Sabbatum Oct 16, 2010 7:29 pm

I've checked and tested everything just the ECU. A parts salesman at o'rielly car says its probably the electronic peice in the distributor,and information technology would be cheaper to just change distributors. Is this a true possibility? Is there whatsoever manner to exam it to be certain??

Post past **Steve83** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 9:26 pm

If y'all haven't tested the PIP within the distributor, then you haven't tested everything. Parts store ignition module testers are NOTORIOUSLY inaccurate (either mode). Get a Haynes manual & a digital multimeter, and follow the ignition diagnostic procedure in Ch.5 (usually Sec.5 or 7). If you lot become to a footstep that says to check the circuits/wiring, read this:

If the PIP actually fails the examination, then yes: it's better to buy a distributor assembly with the PIP installed because yous get a warranty. If you buy a PIP, there'southward no warranty.

.

But don't run out & buy parts until you KNOW which one is causing the trouble.

Post past **Freebirds4x4** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 10:03 am

Later some farther testing of the PIP per steve83's advice. I've discovered the PCM shows to exist bad. I too read and followed the captions in the pictures aswell. I'g gonna remove the PCM and cheque for signs of damage. and post the findings.

Post by **Steve83** » Dominicus Oct 17, 2010 iv:08 pm

Information technology would be VERY rare for a '95 EEC (whatsoever with 3-digit codes) to go bad. The older 2-digit EECs are starting to burn up...

Post past **Freebirds4x4** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 four:36 pm

It never hurts to double cheque or even triple check things. I was preparing to have the PCM out and decided to check the diode along with the wires going into the ICM, the truck started and ran for about 3 minutes on several different attempts. I began putting it all dorsum together taping the clusters. now it won't start at all. I'grand back to square 1 once again. I'll go a new diode from the ford dealer in the morning and try that...I'm truly puzzled!!!

Post by **Steve83** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 x:01 am

You can become a handfull of those diodes at a JY free if you buy something else, and it'll probably cost less AND be quicker than waiting for the dealer to social club ane in. Looks like at least 5 decent yards in Sherman, with that many more than around Denison.

Post by **Freebirds4x4** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 six:30 pm

I talked to the service manager @ Bob Utter Ford this morning, He was telling me that the diode was moreless just a jumper for the SPOUT wire. He too asked if I had checked the voltage to the injectors? I him how to do that and from there he merely wanted me to bring the truck to him and allow them accuse me $200. to find out...
My new question is this how can I check to encounter if the chief elecrical supply is putting enough to the injectors? or exercise i need to try and test the injectors individualy?(according to the haynes manual).
My theory is this: tha if the injectors aren't getting the propper electrial power they won't open up plenty to let the truck run as it should.

Mail by **Steve83** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:12 pm

No, there is no external diode related to the SPOUT. I thought you lot meant the one in the fuse block. What diode are you trying to replace?

The injectors are wired straight to the EEC PWR relay, just like several other actuators. Test the R wire on any injector or the IAC for battery voltage with the key in RUN.

Post by **Freebirds4x4** » Tue October 19, 2010 7:30 am

Its a gray looking piece w/ orange wires going into information technology.its in the aforementioned harness with the ICM. As the Service Manager said its a jumper for the SPOUT. I just put information technology dorsum into its place and reconnected the ICM.
The fuel force per unit area is 40psi with the key on (not running) when I can go it to start using starter fluid the fuel pressure level drops to 28psi. Is it supposed to do that? information technology will maintain that 28psi @ idle. when I open the throttle the fuel force per unit area will drop even more than.
I've cleaned the throttle torso using berrymans throttle body cleaner.Just, I'thousand thinking the true problem is in the injector electrical supply???

Post by **Steve83** » Tue October 19, 2010 eight:15 am

Yeah, that'south the SPOUT connector, and the wires are pinkish.

Everything you need to know about fuel pressure is in the captions linked to the showtime thumbnail I posted in this thread. No, it'south not injector ability.

Somehow I failed to begin with the basics... I couldn't sympathise how so many different items in the electrical system could nowadays an consequence just to create a circle of tests that show the previous test/function to be bad... I was talking with My Dad this morning time about the truck, he asked if I had checked the relay/solenoid on the fender well/ I told him that I had not.And suggested that it or the starter was probably the problem. So, I took them both off and tested the starter and sure enough it was locked upwards I replaced them both together. I guess when you have over 2000 cca(still a 12 volt system),its not hard to over wait some thing like that. Now the next thing thats causing problems is the coil its under warranty then I'll replace it in the morning. I say the coil because, subsequently irresolute the starter and the relay/solenoid, it fired correct upwardly but the coil voltage is all over the meter(tach/dwell/voltage) it would swing from 15.75 downwardly to 2.5 and and then up to 10 and down to 4 up to 16 with the #s swinging like that and the truck still stalling to lucifer those #s I believe it to exist a bad coil. I promise I'm right this time...

Post by **Steve83** » Thu Oct 21, 2010 eight:22 am

When the did the starter quit working? You never mentioned that before - just stalling & the engine spinning but non firing.

IDK how y'all're getting fifteen.75V, only I've never heard of testing a coil's voltage. The Haynes manual's ignition diagnostic procedure will pinpoint any fault if you follow it exactly, and you merely demand a common cheap digital multimeter.

Freebirds4x4 wrote:If the fuel pressure level is twoscore psi with the key on engine off.
Should information technology drop to 28 psi with the engine running?
At 1500-2000 rpms information technology drops fifty-fifty more than to well-nigh twenty psi.
Is the the normal or is the fuel pumps going out.
Information technology has dual tanks and a new pressure regulator,new fuel filter aswell.
I can hear the pumps prime upward for the usual 2 seconds on ea. tank.
It as well seems to run improve on the front tank than it does on the rear
When using the rear tank information technology stalls and dies alot. information technology does the same on the front but not as frequently.

Fuel force per unit area specs are described in the captions of the first link I posted in this thread.

Post by **Freebirds4x4** » Thu Oct 21, 2010 two:39 pm

I wasn't aware that the starter was bad. information technology would spin the motor with no issues. but, I as well have over 2000 cca in the batteries. I tested the starter when I took it off and the soenoid showed to be good but, the bendix bulldoze and gear would engage only, non turn. yet it was testing on the computer every bit good.(testing was washed @ o'riellys)
The truck will starting time now simply, its very hard to get started... yesterday it took starting fluid and 45 minutes to go it started. it won't run on its own and dies ofttimes. once its warmed up to normal 195* temps it would start support. Information technology died eight times in a 1.five mile test drive.
I actually don't know where to look from here. TPS? new throttle body?
The truck has 190k on it and more often than not has the original Ford motorcraft parts.
I tin hear both fuel pumps come on. front and rear. i don't know if it has a frame mounted fuel pump or not.

Post by **Freebirds4x4** » Thu Oct 21, 2010 7:19 pm

After reading and doing alot of research here and in both of the repair manuals(haynes & chilton. I know that every truck is unique in its own way. I'thou tending to believe that Wolfeknights posts of symptoms and tests are alot like my own. in the fact that his problems are real simular to what I'm experiencing. It could exist possible for the PIP sensor in the distributor to be weak and intermitten. i've tried verything I can think of including some tricks and tests that the old timers have taught me. I accept washed mechanic work for most of my life (I'm xl) and this has had me stumped for over three weeks. Discovering the starter issue was from listening to an former timers(my dad) communication. I'g thinking on replacing the distributor to see if thats my cure too. If its an intermitten problem it may test proficient likewise (my thoughts).
If anyone has any other ideas I'm nevertheless open to trying them...

Post by **rikard** » Thu October 21, 2010 8:16 pm

The 95 has ane pump in each tank. The before series had an in tank pump and a frame mounted hello pressure level pump. One of my trucks (92 company truck) had a bad connexion on the fuel pump switch on the dash causing it to die in one case in a while. My 94 (unmarried tank) had a bad connector on the tank wiring harness.
Steve83s info and the Haynes transmission should assistance rail down the problem.
regards
rikard

1983 Ford F150 Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram

bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

Re: bad ignition switch? or somrthing else?

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